Five Minute Geology Lesson
Eons ago, this was an active volcanic area. Three now-dormant volcanoes covered what is now known as Cappadocia with ash (think Mount St. Helens, not lava flows in Hawaii). During periods of eruptions, some ash layers hardened into welded tuffs, while others remained soft. Over time, the soft layers eroded more quickly than the hard layers. This alternating pattern of hard, less eroded layers and soft eroded layers is what forms the unique geology of this area and, in particular, the famous Fairy Chimneys.
It is difficult to describe Katpatuka, now called Cappadocia, without superlatives. I have thought equally of M.C. Escher and his drawings of staircases going both up and down, of the Flintstones and their cave dwellings, and of that “ABC” book by Dr. Seuss with that one letter, which I no longer remember, with funny staircases and cone houses. Maybe they all traveled to Cappadocia at some point for inspiration.
Five Minute History Lesson
Early settlements in Cappadocia date back to 2500 BC, with the Hatti culture, followed by the Hittites, Assyrians, Phrygians, and Persians. In approximately 17 AD, the region became a Roman province. The early Christians hid here in underground cities until Asia Minor came under Christian influence, and the cities flourished for almost 1000 years. Invasions from Turkmenistan and Mongolia, and later the Seljuk Turks and the Ottomans, brought Islam to the area, with the Ottomans finally conquering Constantinople in 1453.
We had three and a half days in this magical place, each day more spectacular than the previous. We hiked through the Rose Valley – or Rose Walley as it was referred to in the flyer – and the Ihlara Valley, visited the old village of Cavusin, walked among the Fairy Chimneys at Pasabag and Urgup, toured the underground city of Kaymakli, climbed up to the Selime Monastery, walked around an Agzikarahan Caravanserai, and visited another Hamam. Note to self: If doing a Hamam twice in one week, skip the loofa scrub.
Each day we climbed up, down, over, and under ancient stone-and-rock staircases. We climbed through rock tunnels so low that even Bert and I had to double over. Sometimes we were single file, making our way up rock faces on ladders to reach dwellings high up the mountainside or on paths with steep drop-offs. Other times, we hiked through valleys in bloom with apricot and almond trees. All of this, with Bert expertly navigating Bill every step of the way. Not once did Bill pass on any part of the trip because it was too difficult. At one point, we had to pass through a pitch-black, tight tunnel, which gave us all the heebie-jeebies – except Bill, who quickly reminded us of his world. Throughout our time here, the looks on people’s faces were no less than incredulous as they watched Bill navigate situations that everyone found challenging.
